№ 214 — The Fire

One fire.
Lit at 11:30.

The mangal is the restaurant. It runs the length of the room, it sets our hours, and it decides when a skewer is ready — not a timer. This is how it works, and everything we refuse to do to make it easier.

Our grill line is open to the dining room. Ask for a counter stool and you’ll eat a metre from the coals, with a front-row seat to every quarter turn.

№ 01 — Spec sheet

The mangal,
by the numbers

Built to order in Gaziantep and shipped to Hackney in 2014. It has been relined twice and never once switched off mid-service.

Grill length

3.2 m, open front

Fuel

Kent oak lump charcoal

Grate temperature

320 – 360°C

Skewers

Flat iron, 18 mm × 70 cm

Knife

Zırh, 42 cm, two handles

Mince rest

14 hours on ice

Charcoal per day

≈ 90 kg

Gas lines

None. Ever.

№ 02 — A day at the fire

From cold iron
to banked ash

09:00

Butchery

Shoulder and tail fat broken down; mincing starts on the zırh board.

11:30

Fire lit

Oak lit in a chimney and spread once it greys over.

12:00

First iron

The first Adana goes on for staff lunch. Always.

15:30

Re-bank

Ash raked, fresh oak laid down for the evening.

18:00

Full bed

The whole length of the grate is live and roaring.

23:00

Last iron

The final skewer of the night, then the künefe.

23:30

Banked

Coals buried under ash to keep the brick warm.

№ 03 — Three tools

Knife, iron, coal

The zırh

A crescent blade with a handle at each end, rocked through the meat for twenty minutes per batch. It cuts rather than crushes, so the fat stays in pieces you can taste.

The flat iron

Wide, heavy skewers that hold heat inside the mince and stop it spinning when we turn it. They’re seasoned like cast iron and never see a dishwasher.

The oak

Kiln-dried oak lump from a Kent coppice. It burns clean, hot and steady, with none of the chemical tang of briquettes.

№ 04 — What we won’t do

The short list
of shortcuts we skip

01

No gas

Not as backup, not on busy nights.

02

No lava rock

It’s a heat sink, not a flavour.

03

No mince machines

Every gram goes under the zırh.

04

No frozen meat

Delivered Tuesday and Friday, used by Sunday.

05

No rushing

If the iron isn’t ready, neither is your plate.

Ask for the counter.

Eight stools face the grill. They’re held for walk-ins until 19:00, then released to bookings.

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